Coumarin in Perfumery

COUMARIN; (Per Wikipedia)Is a chemical compound (specifically, a benzopyrone) found in many plants, notably in high concentration in the tonka bean(Dipteryx odorata), vanilla grass (Anthoxanthum odoratum), woodruff (Galium odoratum), mullein (Verbascum spp.), and sweet grass (Hierochloe odorata). It has a sweet scent, readily recognised as the scent of newly-mown hay, and has been used in perfumes since 1882. The name comes from a French word, coumarou, for the tonka bean. It is a crystalline white solid when seen pure.

Tonka Bean Tree / Dried Tonka Bean

















Coumarin in Perfumery:

Coumarin has a history of importance in perfumery, being the first synthetic (synthesised by W.H. Perkin 1868) to be used in a fragrance. Fougère Royale,from the house of Houbigant was created by Chief perfumer Paul Parquet who used coumarin,combined with lavender, citrus and woody notes to Author the first fragrance that defined the Fougère(fern)genre. It is said that the creation of Fougère Royale marks the birth of modern perfumery.

Fougère Royale

Soon after the release of Fougère Royale, perfumer Aimé Guerlain (1834-1910) combined natural and synthetic fragrances to produce Jicky in 1889, a scent that is still sold widely today. Guerlain added the synthetics coumarin and vanillin (the fragrance principle of vanilla)to natural fragrances. Like Fougère Royale, Jicky is a fern based fragrance.

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